|
There's never a way of saying this without sounding slightly pretentious, but I've just been in New York for a few days. And like every other time I've been there, it seemed the whole place was playing at being New York. As I came out of the airport's automatic doors onto the road, a shortish man of about forty, with an unnecessary moustache who looked like the teacher you had whose name you can't remember, began striding up and down past the queue for taxis screaming "What the FUCK is wrong with this fucking place - I was FIRST IN FUCKING LINE there," his suburban voice almost snapping as it failed to carry the ferocity he was trying to load onto it. "This place is full of FUCKING ASSHOLES," he told us, and a part of me thought he must be employed by the tourist board to greet visitors with the New York experience. He couldn't be real, any more than if you arrived in Tel Aviv and a bloke with a beard in the taxi queue started singing "If I were a rich man diddle iddle iddle um."
But while New York must be the loudest screamiest place in the world it's possibly also the friendliest. People yell at you because they're interested in you. They talk to your kids in the lift and make them feel important. On the subway, when my kids were squabbling, a black man in blue overalls told me in a deep voice "Hmmm, she annoys the hell out of her big brother right, and makes him mad, and there's times when he wishes she'd never been born. But if anyone laid a finger on her there ain't nothing he wouldn't do to protect her." So I returned his warmth with a smile, but a bit of me felt this must be Morgan Freeman practising at being a wise grandpa.
Because often in New York you find yourself thinking "Oh you don't really mean that." A twitchy woman with hair poking in several directions was talking manically to her friend in a diner, and I tuned in at "I'm telling you - he's a MARXIST. He's a black JFK." Then the waiter arrived. "Are YOU voting for Obama?" she asked. "No," mumbled the waiter, disinterested. "Then I'll let you take my order," she cackled, triumphant.
But they can't mean it. In the taxis there are screens showing adverts, and one of them is for a centre that organises yoga for dogs. That's to say yoga, but for fucking dogs. And there are these dogs, in this big hall, lying on their back and sitting in slightly odd positions as encouraged by their owners, who presumably are under the impression that the dog is clearing its mind of all the stress that's built up from being a dog in New York. So you half expect the next advert to be for insect insurance, with a reassuring voiceover asking "Do you worry about ants? In today's crazy world you never know when they might get injured and fall behind in the line carrying crumbs. Well now those worries are over." Or it will say "Do the stones in your garden seem lifeless? Then brighten them up with a massage. Our highly trained pebble masseurs specialise in de-knotting the clogged up anxiety that collects in a stone's 'antagonism zone'."
One morning I was watching one of the customary sugary pairs that front the news channels, when the woman said "And we'll be looking at the disastrous consequences that can follow some plastic surgery." Then came a clip of an interviewer leaning earnestly towards someone you couldn't see, and saying "So one morning you woke up with four breasts." Then back to the studio where the pair put on their distraught look, and one said "More on that shocking story later. But first here's Anthony with the sport."
So New York can't help but make you laugh. But that's tested if you try to go up the Statue of Liberty. In a rare attempt at prior organisation I booked up tickets in advance, which is the only way now that you can go up the statue, rather than just visit the island. But you still have to queue for about forty minutes at a security check before boarding the boat, as a series of officials in purple jackets yell at you - "REMOVE all watches, cell-phones, camera equipment and other electronic devices and PLACE THEM IN THE TRAYS PROVIDED, REMOVE belts, jackets and any metallic equipment..." and you wonder if you've joined the wrong queue and you're being shipped out to Alcatraz. Eventually you're searched, far more thoroughly than at an airport, and this entitles you to get on the boat. Then at the island you have to join another queue and do it all again, presumably in case someone's managed to get there without going through the first check, perhaps through a series of underground tunnels. But this time they're far more stringent, so the queue moves slower and the yelling is more ferocious. You daren't even turn your head away as they're likely to bark "DO YOU THINK THIS DOESN'T APPLY TO YOU, ASSHOLE, NOW GIVE ME TWENTY PRESS-UPS."
After about an hour you make it to where you have to deposit all your belongings in a locker, which you operate by placing two fingers on a machine that takes your prints, then giving it a dollar. Then there's another queue until you're ushered into a plastic doorway that looks like the thing that beams you up in Star Trek. Then you move one pace forward and an automated voice snaps "Air puffers ON." There's a wait of around two seconds, which is just long enough to ponder whether air puffers is a term that sounds so innocent but then so is waterboarding, then there's a big 'Whooosh whooosh' noise and a bloody great puff of air comes up from underneath and goes up your trouser leg as if it's the thing they used to make that scene with Marilyn Monroe.
By now it's clear there's nowhere in the Western world in which there's less liberty than at the Statue of Liberty. My son said "If immigrants still came here by boat they'd look across at all this as they were passing and shout 'Can we go to Canada instead'?"
And yet somehow it still seems funny. They CAN'T mean it. On the subway going back we must have had six friendly conversations. Then, in the clammy stifling bustle of several thousand people trying to get out of the station, everyone pressed against five other people like when you're leaving a massive rock gig, the woman in front yelled "Some ASSHOLE'S PUSHING me, well FUCK YOU." And I thought about the equivalent in London, which would be a disgruntled sneer of contempt and a muttered 'Do you mind', and realised the New York version was much more engaging, and it just made me laugh.
|